Stepping outside onto our private terrace there was a swinging hammock and a full day bed under the extended straw roof which neatly disguised the tent. We were yards away from the white sandy beach and could see the reef just offshore. To complete the picture a cheeky Colobus monkey sat on the roof, watching us. Having got over the shock, we quickly settled in and over the coming week enjoyed the retreat-like atmosphere of this unique resort. Meals were served in the open-sided dining room beneath a high thatch roof; the pool and spa were delightful, and we joined the local guide for rambles around the island, spotting tiny antelope, turtles and hermit crabs with huge shells on their backs. We visited the altar at which the local Digo people still leave their sacrifices and requests, and submersed ourselves in the sulphurous slimy grey mud for a DIY mud bath treatment.

Days out began with a stroll to the jetty and a boat or tractor ride to the mainland. The wildlife safaris were quite superb as we were within striking distance of Tsavo East National Park. After seeing herds of elephants, zebra, wildebeest, countless antelope and monkeys, the day ended as a cheetah strolled across the path in front of our jeep followed by four scampering kittens.

I don’t do camping, but I can recommend Chale Island. Call it bungalow accommodation, as the guide book does, then settle down to a relaxed existence of sleeping, swimming, reading, walking and eating. And of course safari-ing.

By Gillian Birch

Sam picked me up in a hired, air-conditioned car and we headed off into the jungle. In the morning sunshine, the mahouts bring their working elephants down to the shady waters to bathe and enjoy some R&R. We watched as the cumbersome giants waded into the shallow river, ponderously knelt down then rolled onto the stony riverbed. I could almost hear them sigh with pleasure. I took my coconut shell halves and approached with caution. Scooping up the river water I began to massage and scrub the elephant’s hide, gradually working across the huge wrinkled expanse. It was so quiet and therapeutic, and not just for the elephant! After a time the elephant began to rise and the mahout beckoned for me to climb on the elephant’s back. Hanging onto the rope, I clambered up as the elephant rose to stand. Everyone but me could guess what came next. The elephant began to hose up the clear river water and spray it over his back – and me! Time and again I was soaked, laughing. Now you know to wear a bathing suit for this trip!

By Gillian Birch

After a hard day’s shopping along Singapore’s Orchard Road, I was ready to sit down in the evening, and the Night Zoo was just the ticket. Arriving at dusk, that’s just after 7pm here, I boarded the open-sided tram/train and it silently glided off down the track. We drove slowly beneath the jungle foliage and came to the first opening. The animals were bathed in ‘moonlight’ so we could see them, but we were in the dark so were less visible to them. It was wonderful to see the big cats eating and then playing around  so close to us and I was thoroughly entranced.

The commentary was softly spoken and very useful as I no idea what half the animals were! We were all hushed as we watched the spectacle. Foxes, wolves and deer were quite fascinating but there were also plenty of bigger animals along the way too, including hyenas, wildebeest and giraffes. Part way along the ride, the train stopped and we all disembarked to walk along a trail exploring some of the smaller creatures along the way such as badgers, otters and porcupines. The insect repellant was a must at this point! It was great to see the anteaters foraging in the undergrowth and it seemed far more natural than the usual caged exhibits. Back on board we resumed the magical tour which took a good 45 minutes to complete, then on to the shows. Take your pick between the tribal dance show complete with fire eaters, and the more appropriate Creatures of the Night Show. Of course one of the reptiles got lost and we all cautiously looked beneath our seats – not easy in the dark! The only drawback to the zoo is that flash photography is not allowed for obvious reasons but it is great trip and a very special way to see the wildlife.

By Gillian Birch

The problem in the area was that the turtles were becoming endangered.  As fast as they trundled ashore and laid their 50 or so eggs in the sand, the locals would dig them up and use them as a nutritious meal to feed their families, and who could blame them? The founders of the hatchery, back in 1981 got around the problem by buying the eggs from the local Sri Lankans, who in turn used the money to buy a more varied choice of protein. So far so good; they still sourced the turtle eggs but now turned them in to the turtle hatchery in exchange for a few cents.

The hatchery carefully dated and incubated the eggs in sand mounds, which we were able to see. As the tiny turtles hatched they were put into tanks of water. The difference between newly hatched turtles and those that were a few days old was amazing. This protected start helped immensely in their survival rate. Visitors could pay a fee and choose a tiny turtle to take down the beach to the water’s edge. The tiny, perfectly formed creature wriggled and flapped as I held it between my finger and thumb. Having given him a name I gently set him down at the edge of the waves and watched him launch into the comparatively enormous waves. It was a wonderfully emotion-charged moment as I wished him Godspeed.

The wonderful thing about this project was how ecological it was, making an enormous difference to the local turtle population without harming local families’ nutrition. It was also perfectly self-funding as the small charge to visitors was used to buy more turtle eggs from the local collectors – a perfect economic model!

By Gillian Birch

Stepping outside onto our private terrace there was a swinging hammock and a full day bed under the extended straw roof which neatly disguised the tent. We were yards away from the white sandy beach and could see the reef just offshore. To complete the picture a cheeky Colobus monkey sat on the roof, watching us. Having got over the shock, we quickly settled in and over the coming week enjoyed the retreat-like atmosphere of this unique resort. Meals were served in the open-sided dining room beneath a high thatch roof; the pool and spa were delightful, and we joined the local guide for rambles around the island, spotting tiny antelope, turtles and hermit crabs with huge shells on their backs. We visited the altar at which the local Digo people still leave their sacrifices and requests, and submersed ourselves in the sulphurous slimy grey mud for a DIY mud bath treatment.

Days out began with a stroll to the jetty and a boat or tractor ride to the mainland. The wildlife safaris were quite superb as we were within striking distance of Tsavo East National Park. After seeing herds of elephants, zebra, wildebeest, countless antelope and monkeys, the day ended as a cheetah strolled across the path in front of our jeep followed by four scampering kittens.

I don’t do camping, but I can recommend Chale Island. Call it bungalow accommodation, as the guide book does, then settle down to a relaxed existence of sleeping, swimming, reading, walking and eating. And of course safari-ing.

By Gillian Birch

It was hushed and still with just the sound of bird song in the trees. You could not help but pause on the bridge and look down into the pond, seeing a scene which is known in every art gallery, calendar and card shop in the world, it seems.

Truly a memorizing and memorable trip, a walk through Monet’s garden, especially in the spring and early summer is a must. Breathe in the beauty and understand what motivated this great artist to first create and then paint this idyllic garden.

By Gillian Birch

At the end of a particularly happy trip, we were returning to catch the morning ferry from Roscoff to Plymouth and needed a place to stay for the night. Searching the area around Gizeux there seemed to be only one option – a night at the local château. We drove through the gates feeling like millionaires and knocked on several doors to no avail. Finally we stood with a group of tourists who were waiting to be taken on a guided tour of the castle by the owner. Finally the lady of the big house appeared, baby under one arm and without any affected airs welcomed us to her home. We were invited to tag along for the tour, which we gladly did. The château, like so many along this fabulous route, was absolutely huge with hunting rooms full of trophy heads and rooms lined with antique paintings. The hand painted fireplaces, and decorative raftered ceilings were literally works of art. The enterprising owner around 1680 invited a whole school of art to come and practice painting at the château. The painters created the Grand Gallery of Castles which covers 400 meters of wall space with huge murals of royal castles including Versailles and Fontainebleau as they were 350 years ago. We gazed in awe at the incredible workmanship and saw some tiny patches which had been cleaned and restored bringing further brightness to these wonderful artworks.

At the end of the tour our rooms were behind the cordoned roped off area and we climbed the turret on well worn stone steps to a delightful room. With heavy shutters, antique furniture and thankfully a 21st century bathroom with hand painted tiles, we settled snugly down for a night in a French chateau. Breakfast was served in the ancient kitchen, probably the most meager French breakfast I have ever encountered and ironically in the most expensive accommodation I have ever experienced, but the experience was certainly a memorable one.
By Gillian Birch

By Gillian Birch

Photo by milan boers

Passing the last casino, I stopped by an Indian village and waited under a porch. A weathered Indian ambled towards me and nodded to the airboat. With earplugs in and perched on a bench, the huge air propeller on the back roared into life and we were off. Zipping through the eight foot high reeds and disturbing wading birds, herons, egrets and more, a tiny frog jumped and landed right on the front windscreen!   Stopping eventually at a boardwalk in the middle of nowhere, I explored an Indian hammock settlement and saw the biggest alligator yet – all eleven feet of him. I bought beads from the Indian women and smiled at the children playing before boarding the airboat again. Flying back towards civilization, the wind in my face, I laughed as the airboat turned sharply and spray flew up in our wake. These airboats are so agile, noisy and exhilarating. Back on dry land I shook hands with my new friend, one of the last Miccosukee Indians, and returned to the 21st century again.

By Gillian Birch

We were greeted on board by our knowledgeable Egyptologist guide with a glass of hibiscus juice. Sitting on deck in wicker chairs as we set sail, we felt like extras in a scene straight from Agatha Christie herself!

The beauty of this cruise was that it began at Aswan, with a charter flight direct from London. All the other cruises start at Luxor and sail en masse up the Nile, while we alone sailed in the opposite direction. While other cruises discharge hundreds of cruisers simultaneously at each temple and tomb, the elite passengers of King Fuad’s steamer arrived at each attraction and had it to themselves! From this crème de la crème cruise, we were able to take trips in feluccas across to the gardens on Elephantine Island. We rode around Luxor in a collection of horse-drawn carriages, and were treated like honoured guests in the tiny papyrus factory and workshops which could not accommodate larger groups. The whole happy party was transported in style on a camel train along the banks to a local Nubian village, which again is not possible for large cruises.

With just 30 elite fellow passengers, dinner times were a pleasure. There was no rush, no noise, and no waiting in line. The paddle steamer moved at a sedate 5-8 knots, the perfect speed for reading, looking up from time to time at the passing villages, donkeys and children waving at the quaint little paddleboat. No matter how you cruise the Nile, the sights are breathtaking, mind-blowing and awe-inspiring. The age and quality of the carvings, architecture and paintings are quite amazing. But travel first class if you can. The experience of a week on King Fuad’s steamer is something you will treasure forever.

By Gillian Birch