ANTIPASTI
Potato frittata – a savory fried potato dish, is a common appetizer. Or try some freshly-baked bread made with butter and anchovies that balance salty and sweet perfectly. A plate of cheeses and cold meats is also another ideal way to begin your meal, with dried, tangy Roman meat. Fried mixed vegetables is another starter. Two classics are both made with artichokes: the carciofo alla romana, stewed in olive oil and herbs, and the traditionally Jewish carciofo alla giudea, blackened and crispy. Many Roman restaurants have buffets where you can fill your plate with heaping spices and herbs, meats, fishes, and vegetables for your first course.

PRIMI PIATTI (PASTAS, SOUPS, ETC)
The Bucatini Amatriciana is not Roman, technically from the small town of Amatrice, but that’s close enough – it’s from Lazio after all. This sauce, based on dried pork cheek (guanciale) and pecorino cheese and at times tomatoes, is a classic of Roman cuisine. Spaghetti was the traditional pasta, but bucatini has become more popular recently. Roman egg noodles with roulade sauce is another good bet, as is the pasta with cauliflower and fish, pasta with chickpeas, and rice with endive greens.

MAIN COURSES
Fresh anchovies with endive greens are a Roman specialty. For an exciting treat, try peas with some hound fish, artichokes with cuttlefish, or the savory, aromatic codfish stew. Fresh anchovies fried golden are another option. As for meat – the trippa alla romana – tripe with tomato, mint, and cheese, is a must-taste Roman classic, while oxtail stew, marrow bone (osso bucco), and veal scaloppini are also classics. Be sure to try a “fornara”veal roast and chicken with peppers.

DESSERTS
While gelato is a quintessential Italian treat, for a classic Roman dessert try a zuppa inglese, a creamy sponge-cake with chocolate, whipped cream, and almonds. Ricotta cheesecake is another specialty, as is sour cherry pie.

By Tara Isabella Burton

BEGIN: Piazza Venezia. It’s not gorgeous, but it gets the job done. See the famous (or infamous) “typewriter building,” then head left if you’re facing it, down Via Foro Imperiali. Marvel at the ancient Roman ruins dotting the landscape. When you get the Colosseum, turn right – you’ll be passing the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, and more on the way to the Circus Maximus at the end of Via di San Gregori. Avoid going on the traffic-stained Viale Aventine and instead round the Circus Maximus – once a racing track – and go up Via del Circo Massimo. Head up to see one of the most beautiful churches in Rome at the top of the Aventinue Hill by taking a left on Via di Valle Murcia – then heading on to Santa Sabina – and head down the hill on Cilvo di Rocca Savella. You should now be near the river. Walk along the riverside area until you get to the charming Isola Tiberina in the midst of the Tiber. According to legend, a place of great healing, the famous hospital Fate Bene Fratelli now stands on these shores. Cross over the island to the other side of the river: Trastevere. Avoid Viale Trastevere, going instead through the winding streets of Trastevere, a still-Medieval working-class area, and make your way to Santa Maria in Trastevere in the piazza of the same name. Here’s a good place to stop for a rest.

MIDDLE: Once you’ve had a coffee or cornetto pastry, continue west through Trastevere until you get to Via Garibaldi, a wide street leading away from the river. Follow the path up the steep hill of Gianicolo, making sure to make note of the panoramic city views available to you on this side of the river. At the top of the hill you’ll be in the leafy residential district of Monteverde Vecchio. If you have time, wander through the Villa Pamphili parks, less manicured than the Villa Borghese on the other side of the river. Head down the way you came a few hundred metres, then turn left on Passagiata del Gianicolo, taking you through a sculpture-lined park promenade. You’ll come down near Salita di Sant’Onofrio, a hilly street lined with stairways, bordered with ivy. When you reach the river again, you’ll be near Vatican City. Enter the city and pass through the main Piazza San Pietro, home to the seat of the Catholic Church. After time spent in and around the Vatican, cross the river again at Ponte St. Angelo, known for the Bernini angels that decorate it.

END: You’re now in the quintesentially Roman Governo Vecchio area. Walk down Via del Governo Vecchio, (coming out of Banchi Nuovi) and you’ll reach the famous Piazza Navona, once a Roman racetrack, now an elegant Renaissance square. Relax and have an ice cream – this area may be touristy, but the buildings’ beautiful facades and the square’s three baroque fountains are well worth their fame.

By Tara Isabella Burton

1) The Pantheon

One of the best-preserved ancient Roman buildings in the world, the Pantheon was built as a temple to all the gods (from the Greek “pan” = all, “theos” = meaning “a god”) under Emperon Hadrian in the second century AD. The building’s impressive arches, geometrical symmetry, and gorgeous domes make it well worth seeing, and its location in the heart of Rome’s historic quarter only makes it more appealing.

2) The Roman Forum

The center of Rome’s life was once here – from temples to brothels, law-courts to food stalls. Get a panoramic view of the Forum from the Captioline Hill (behind Piazza Venezia), then visit ruin after ruin for a glimpse of what Rome once looked like, and imagine yourself as one in a long line of purple-togaed Romans (the purple denoting senatorial status) like Cicero, Pompey Magnus, or Cato. And, of course, check out the gruesome history of the nearby Colosseum.

3) The Palatine Hill

Romulus, founder of Rome, was once suckled here by a she-wolf in a hut on this hill, according to Roman legend. While a hut exists here, relics of a less mythic past include the Domus Flavia and Domus Augustana, official imperial residences. Also check out the treasures of the Palatine Museum for more insights into Ancient Roman life.

4) Trajan’s Market

Once believed to be the oldest “shopping mall” in the world, the cells in this multi-level structure are now considered to have been officers for the administrative officers under  Emperor Trajan. Most of the levels are still accessible to visitors, and you will be able to see marble floors and what was once a library. The adjacent museum houses artifacts from all of Rome’s Forums.

5) The Catacombs on Via Appia Antica

Once the major road into Rome, Via Appia Antica is now ten miles of archaeological remnants, from parks to tombs to monuments. VIsit the catacombs near the church of St. Sebastian for a guided subterranean tour of Christian worship in an age where Christianity was punishable by death. The nearby restaurant Cecilia Metella is well worth a visit for a post-sightseeing lunch or dinner.

By Tara Isabella Burton

1) Pier Luigi, Piazza dei Ricci
Although curious tourists now frequently flock to this upscale classic, located on a scene pedestrianized piazza near the Campo dei Fiori area, the local clientele – Rome’s greats from actors to diplomats to Italian government officials – remains loyal, and with good reason. The food is phenomenal, made all the better for its simplicity: rather than meaningless “innovation,” the pastas, seafood, and meats here are allowed to taste of their natural flavor. When that flavor comes from fresh Italian produce, the results are splendid. The staff is especially friendly, and quick to recognize a regular.

2) Settimio’s, Via dell’Arancia
This trendy restaurant near Piazza del Popolo and the Corso is known for its influential businessmen and fashionable glitterati who dine here at lunch and dinner alike. The food is slightly more creative than at Pier Luigi, but still retains a sense of being “proper” Italian food, rather than over-innovative “fusion” cuisine. Ideal for people-watching.

3) Scarpone, Via di San Pancrazio
Less expensive than the first two, Scarpone is located in the charming, leafy residential area of Monteverde Vecchio. Sporting a spacious indoor room and a lovely, large garden, Scarpone is an ideal family restaurant, with delicious food (try the risottos!) that is refreshingly unfussed. The antipasti bar is also legendary, with an enormous selection of cold goodies that can serve as an appetizer or, for those who can’t resist their pleasures, a main meal.

4) Trattoria La Moretta, Vicolo della Moretta
Simple and inexpensive, this charming checkered-tablecloth establishment near the Tiber River – with a lovely outdoor seating area onto the quiet piazzetta – is an ideal spot for a tranquil lunch. The fettuccini with porcini mushrooms is amazing, but the place’s real star is the enormous risotti ai crema di scampi. Be warned: their bread basket of warm, fresh-baked flatbread, might just fill you up before the meal.

5) Perilli, Via Mamorata
If you’re a brave eater, willing to try Roman specialties (which involve, shall we say, the less common parts of animals), come to this Testaccio staple. Anywhere in the Testaccio neighborhood has excellent traditional romanesco fare, but Perilli is famous for its osso bucco, tripa alla romana, and other organ-meat dishes.

By Tara Isabella Burton

1) Caffe della Pace
This art nouveau cafe near Piazza Navona has been Rome’s arty elite’s hangout for decades, and it shows no sign of slowing in advanced age. As eternal as the city itself, the ivy-covered exterior hosts beautiful young (and old) things under a starry sky, while the wood-paneled interior fills up as the night crowds on. Cocktails aren’t cheap, but when you can sit, see, and be seen for hours, the drinks (and attending free snacks) are well worth their price.

Piazza Navona - Photo by David Paul Ohmer

2) The view from the Gianicolo
Not technically one of Rome’s seven hills, the hill leading to the leafy residential district of Monteverde Vecchio is nevertheless one of its most beautiful. The park leading from Via Garibaldi on one side to the children’s hospital on the other offers statue-studded walkways, verdant greenery, and best of all, lush views of the city sprawling out beneath you in all its colorful glory.

Roma from Gianicolo - Photo by flickr's mysticchildz

3) The Borghese Museum (and Gardens)
It’s recommended to book in advance to see the baroque splendor of this palace-turned-museum, featuring such famous pieces as Bernini’s Hades and Persephone and Cupid and Psyche. But worth it it is – as you can feel like a Borgia or Medici as you parade around the sumptuous interiors. The surrounding park is also beautiful, offering views of the city from the other side of the river, as well as access to Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps. Lunch at Casina Validier, in the gardens, for an unforgettable experience.

4) The Orange Garden in Aventine
From the fragrant hilltop in the Aventino area, experience great views of the Roman Forum and Circus Maximus from a tourist-free distance. The Parco Savello, with its sweet-smelling oranges and cool greenery, is a perfect oasis from which to tackle the ruins of Ancient Rome.

5) Authentic Roman Cuisine in Testaccio
Tripe, liver, cheek, and brains may not be your thing, but if you have the stomach to tackle stomach, visit the heavily Roman working-class (and newly gentrified) neighborhood of Testaccio, named for the shards of broken pottery that once formed this hill, for a taste of traditional Roman fare as it ought to be cooked – bold, adventurous, and unafraid of the seemingly gruesome. (Far less gruesome, it ought to be said, than some of the swill served at central “authentic” tourist traps).

by Tara Isabella Burton