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Idyllic Ischia Island Day Trip Guide
The island of Ischia, a tranquil and lush island located off the coast of Naples, receives both the benefits and drawbacks of being located near its more famous sister, Capri. While Capri is by far the more popular of the two, Ischia's idyllic calm more than makes up for it – although it has gotten more touristy in recent years. This island, filled with rich bougainvillea flowers, fresh seafood, and stunning Mediterranean and mountain panoramas alike, is an ideal spring vacation spot, but nowhere is as worth visiting as the tiny town of St. Angelo, located in the Serrara Fontana Province. Once completely car-free, although now mini-trucks are used to help travelers up the winding and steep hill-streets of the town, St. Angelo is a tranquil beach town with unbeatable charm. Here's a quick guide to what to do and see – and where to eat and drink – in St. Angelo.
DO: Saint Angelo's main attraction is its beaches, which open out onto the sparkling Mediterranean, which turns green, blue, or grey depending on the time of day and weather. The town is also full of spas – it's known for its thermal properties – of which the best is the gorgeous classically-inspired Apollo/Aphrodite. If you're feeling adventurous, though, head up the hill of St. Angelo – there really only is one main street – and trek up the arduous but beautiful path to Serrara-Fontana, the main towns of the region, and then up to Monte Epemaeo, Ischia's highest mountain, which offers not just gorgeous panoramas of the town below but also traditional Ischian mountain food for a full meal of something other than customary seafood. For travelers seeking a lighter trek, there's always the rewarding walk from the Ischian beach of St. Angelo to the Cava Scura – which terminates in a thermal spa for massages, saunas, and mud baths. Or go into town, to the “piazzetta” for some live music, nightlife, and a chance to buy St. Angelo's famous ceramic works.
EAT: The best restaurant in St. Angelo is easily Emmanuela's, located in a house right on the beach. Emmanuela's is a family-owned operation, comprising many generations of skilled cooks and jovial waiters, and they serve up some of the best, freshest seafood in the world. The spaghetti Emmanuela, a mix of seafood in a light tomato sauce, is highly recommended, and is this author's favorite dish at any restaurant in the world. Also worth visiting is the slightly more upscale Neptuno, in the Piazetta area, for luscious classical decor and fresh fish, the piano-bar La Pirata right in the town square for a slightly funkier vibe, and the restaurant attached to Apollo/Aphrodite for some incredible pasta. Petro Paulo, near the Cava Scura, is another good option.
By Tara Isabella Burton
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