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The Magic of Rome
The historical city on seven hills has centuries' worth of delights, from ancient ruins to Renaissance palazzos to modern nightclubs right out of La Dolce Vita. But Rome's charm can be elusive – the chaos of contemporary city life, the roar of motorcycles, the madding crowds – and difficult to pick out from a sea of tourist traps and lookalike vendors. Here are five moments, streets, and places to go to capture Rome at its very best.
1) Caffe della Pace
This art nouveau cafe near Piazza Navona has been Rome's arty elite's hangout for decades, and it shows no sign of slowing in advanced age. As eternal as the city itself, the ivy-covered exterior hosts beautiful young (and old) things under a starry sky, while the wood-paneled interior fills up as the night crowds on. Cocktails aren't cheap, but when you can sit, see, and be seen for hours, the drinks (and attending free snacks) are well worth their price.
2) The view from the Gianicolo
Not technically one of Rome's seven hills, the hill leading to the leafy residential district of Monteverde Vecchio is nevertheless one of its most beautiful. The park leading from Via Garibaldi on one side to the children's hospital on the other offers statue-studded walkways, verdant greenery, and best of all, lush views of the city sprawling out beneath you in all its colorful glory.
3) The Borghese Museum (and Gardens)
It's recommended to book in advance to see the baroque splendor of this palace-turned-museum, featuring such famous pieces as Bernini's Hades and Persephone and Cupid and Psyche. But worth it it is – as you can feel like a Borgia or Medici as you parade around the sumptuous interiors. The surrounding park is also beautiful, offering views of the city from the other side of the river, as well as access to Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps. Lunch at Casina Validier, in the gardens, for an unforgettable experience.
4) The Orange Garden in Aventine
From the fragrant hilltop in the Aventino area, experience great views of the Roman Forum and Circus Maximus from a tourist-free distance. The Parco Savello, with its sweet-smelling oranges and cool greenery, is a perfect oasis from which to tackle the ruins of Ancient Rome.
5) Authentic Roman Cuisine in Testaccio
Tripe, liver, cheek, and brains may not be your thing, but if you have the stomach to tackle stomach, visit the heavily Roman working-class (and newly gentrified) neighborhood of Testaccio, named for the shards of broken pottery that once formed this hill, for a taste of traditional Roman fare as it ought to be cooked – bold, adventurous, and unafraid of the seemingly gruesome. (Far less gruesome, it ought to be said, than some of the swill served at central “authentic” tourist traps).
By Tara Isabella Burton
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