Tucked into an old, rambling adobe compound on Old Santa Fe Trail in historic Barrio de Analco, Rio Chama is a quaint mix of its storied past and sleek modernity. We’d made reservations (always a good idea) for 7:30 p.m. that Tuesday night, but arrived about 45 minutes early to check out the less formal tavern. A large gleaming bar dominates the middle of the room, surrounded by over-sized booths. Large A-frame wooden structures set into the ceiling and two large-screen plasma TVs (tuned to a baseball game) give the space a casual, updated feel. You can order off the restaurant menu or from the basic bar-food menu (heavy on fried options). My husband ordered the Rio Chama Amber Ale, made by Marble Brewery specifically for the restaurant. I asked, but the server was not aware of anywhere the brew was available in bottles.
The restaurant is currently running 25% off bottles of wine (Italian vintages on Monday, French bottles on Tuesday, California Cabernet on Wednesday and weekend brunch discounts on white, rosÈ or sparkling). The wine list is a whopping 29 pages so be prepared to peruse for a while. The server was knowledgeable but willingly asked the manager for advice on a good, modestly-priced (by modest, I mean under $50) French red. Snuggled into the nook with our beverages, we dipped chunks of sourdough, apple and steamed broccoli and cauliflower into a cheese fondue liberally doused with the Rio Chama signature beer. Yum.
The server gave us a five-minute warning to our reservation time and then trailed behind us with our bottle as we were seated in the main dining room (the drizzly evening nixed my original patio-dining plan). The original hardwood floors and wood accents broke up the tables into smaller cluster; one large group of six sat nearby but the rest of the tables held couples quietly talking.
My husband and I sipped our wine as we awaited our orders: Slow Roasted Prime served with a loaded baked potato and sautÈed green beans (Eight ounces, $27.00) and Cinnamon-Chile Rubbed Beef Tenderloin Medallions with chipotle cheddar mashed potatoes, almond green beans and mango salsa. (Two medallions, $39.00). For the non-meat eaters, The Rio Chama Vegetable Plate was tempting: a wild mushroom risotto is served with asparagus, arugula and balsamic reduction ($19.00). We splurged on the Chocolate Pot served with vanilla crÈme anglaise ($8.00)
By Anna Philpot
